DAY 1 - Mexico City
I was happy to get to meet up with Anne and travel with her during her sabbatical, I think the last time I saw her was in 2014 (?) in Toronto! (but it feels so much longer than 6 years.) Anne was planning to travel through Mexico for 6 months, and I could just take time off for a week, so I was one of her companions for this part of her trip to visit Mexico City and San Miguel de Allande. I arrived at the airport in Mexico City and met up with Anne who just flew in from....... a seaside town... (can't remember the name), we had a bite to eat in the airport and then made our way to our hostel. We used Uber for all of our rides within the city, it was my first time using the service and it was quite easy to use. Quite convenient if you don't speak Spanish - although most of the Uber drivers will try to strike up a conversation in Spanish, in most cases I would let Anne talk, tee hee.
Our hostel was not very full, so we had a whole section to ourselves, although at night it's pitch black so it's a little scary.... but during the day it's very nice.
The location was also really good, we walked to the Zocalo - a huge square in the middle of the city, usually this term is used to refer to the main square in many Mexican cities. The Zocalo had some beautiful tents up, it's surrounded by historic buildings like a cathedral, the National Palace, and Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mexico.
There were people dressed in some sort of tribal costumes and at first I thought it was a cultural performance, but then you would see people line up and give money, on another day we saw one of the "Chiefs" make a smokey fire that was used to "bless/cleanse" people. So I think it's some sort of ritual.
Once you enter the hotel, even the entrance is fancy looking, it's brightly lit with huge chandeliers and there are two bellmen who will open the door for you. Once you walk the stairs up to the lobby, when you look up, you'll see a beautiful stained glass ceiling. We went up to the top floor as well because there's supposed to be a rooftop bar with a view over the whole square, however when we went there we didn't stay - can't remember the exact reason why, but I think we weren't allowed to take photos without staying for dinner or something like that.
We walked around the streets around the Zocalo, and by the time we started heading back to our hostel, the square was light up and it looked so pretty. We didn't have dinner, so I got a grilled corn (elote) and also had miso soup when I got back to the hostel.
DAY 2 - Mexico City to San Miguel de Allande
We woke up pretty early, I think, and I remember we did something in the hostel's kitchen, I don't know if we had to prepare our own food or if there were some food there. After a bit, we got ready and went out for a walk around our hostel as it wasn't time to check-out yet.
When we arrived yesterday, we didn't see much of this other side of the area around our hostel - maybe they were already closed, but this morning, it was busy with activity as people started opening up their shops and street food vendors were serving up breakfast and fresh fruit juices. The feeling was almost like street markets in Asia (Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam etc.)
up piecing together two photos and one is landscape and the other is portrait orientation....
At the end of the street of where our hostel was located, my eyes were attracted to these beautiful purple trees - these are Jacarandas - and you will only see the purple flowers in Spring. We came at just the right time to see them before the end of Spring.
Before making our way to the bus terminal to catch the bus to San Miguel we had a quick bite. Unfortunately I can't remember what these are...... but I remember that one of them tasted better than the other, just can't remember which one it was.....
We took Uber to the bus terminal Autobuses del Norte. Earlier research on which bus to take, people recommended to use either ETN or Primera Plus bus companies. The trip is about 4 hours from Mexico City to San Miguel. I don't know which one we went with in the end, as I can't find our bus tickets, but we were surprised at how nice the bus was!!! Each seat had their own personal TV, the seats reclined (and are wide) like you're in business class on a plane. We got free water (and my pre-trip research says there's a snack, but I don't remember if we had something....). We got stuck in a bit of traffic along the way but being on such a nice bus made it much easier.
so I ended up listening to music and loved this album, this became the soundtrack for this trip!
From the bus terminal in San Miguel we took an Uber to the town centre - and a random stranger started talking to us as we were getting off the bus and he invited himself to hitch a ride with us into town. Then we had to get another Uber to our hotel. After checking into our hotel, we went on a short walk to a laundry nearby.
I don't usually do laundry when I travel, especially when I'm only there for about a week, but Anne was traveling for much longer and also my luggage was just a carry-on this time so I couldn't pack much. Good thing it's not expensive to get your laundry done and there are LOTS of laundry shops everywhere you go. The one we chose ended up being a very interesting one because we met San Miguel's Anthony Hopkins! He was so nice and smiley, and he reads tarot cards!
After dropping off the laundry, we walked into town just as the sun was setting. This town is very photogenic.
As we reached the center of San Miguel - aka El Jardin (the Garden) here instead of zocalo, just as we turned a corner, I saw a Mojigangas coming down the cobblestone street across the way. Mojigangas are giant puppets /costumes that often lead a small parade through the streets whenever there's a celebration - such as a wedding or religious procession. They have enormous decorated heads and made from papier-mache, while the body is an A-frame structure draped with cloth. I don't know exactly how tall this one was, but they are typically 15 ft tall. The puppeteer is not on stilts and it looks like he has to carry the top half of the puppet on his shoulders.
From the way they are dressed it seems these Mojigangas are for a wedding! I was really hoping I'd get to see these before coming here, and I was so happy to see them on our first day here! We followed the Mojigangas into El Jardin and found lots of people sitting under the trees in the middle admiring the tall cathedral and just enjoying the company of each other as the sun set. There were also mariachi bands going around to sing and perform for people. More photos later, first we had to find a place for dinner.
As Anne had been in Mexico for quite some time before meeting up with me, she had been eating tacos every day so she was craving for something other than Mexican food. We decided to try the Italian restaurant located next to the Jardin with a beautiful view of the cathedral (Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel). I think we enjoyed the food, because we went back for a second dinner on our last night in San Miguel.
After dinner we went back to pick up Anne's laundry and said good night to Anthony Hopkins.
DAY 3 - San Miguel
Everything looks better in the morning light, I admired the soft, glowy orange wall of our hotel and the Jacaranda in the background. We had breakfast downstairs in the garden and then went for a walk in the quiet streets. We walked and walked and came to a square where artists were drawing portraits/murals on the ground.
This area of San Miguel feels more like where the locals live; the Jardin and the area around that seems more for people visiting San Miguel. Although overall, the town of San Miguel feels like it is a vacation destination for Americans. Most people speak English here and not being able to speak Spanish wasn't too much of a problem.
This morning we were making our way to El Mirador - this is one of the best view points to look down over the town. I don't remember if we walked all the way there, but from the photos it looks like we did! What made us think it was ok to do that? I think google map probably said it was a 20 min walk or sth, but it was all uphill! Now that I think back, I'm glad we walked, we got to take our time and stop for photos, and I think it probably didn't take us that long to get up the hill, it just felt never ending because we didn't know where we were and how much further it would take.
When we got to the top, we wanted something to drink, it's quite dry in Mexico in general - although I can't remember if there's a difference between Mexico City and San Miguel...... I think Mexico City is even more dry than San Miguel and not as hot? Anyways, we got a shaved ice, very refreshing (and I think we got to keep the cup, right Anne?).
After we had our fill of looking at the town, we took the bus back into town - I really enjoyed it as this was the only time we got to take public transport with locals. When we got on, we had to buy a bus ticket from the boy in the green t-shirt.
When we got off we walked to a local market, along the way we passed by lots of colourful homes. I love the colour schemes here!
The Mercado de Artesanias is where you can find lots of hand-painted ceramics and crafts that would make good souvenirs. There's also a local market at the top where you can buy food and drinks. I think we got some chick peas, jicama and there's this drink - pulque (fermented agave drink) that we tried there.
After this we also visited Fabrica La Aurora that afternoon, this used to be a textile mill from 1902-1991, now it's a complex of shops that sell art works and home decoration items and furniture.
After this we went back into town and went to have a late lunch at La Sirena Gorda. The people at the next table recommended some dishes for us. As we were waiting for our food I noticed this cute baby!
Afterwards we went to San Augustin for dessert - hot chocolate and churros. This is a well-known and busy place, there are often lines here. It's also quite hot inside this restaurant, all the staff look tired and sweaty. I can't remember what we tried, but I think the hot chocolate and churros were all a bit too sweet for my taste, we tried another place in Mexico City that was better in my opinion.
Mariachi Bands are always walking around singing and chatting.
DAY 4 - San Miguel
We saw Anthony Hopkins again this morning, and then had breakfast at a cafe that were on these steps, we had passed by one of the previous evenings.
above image: cafe on steps at night
below image: cafe on steps in the morning
After breakfast we went to the botanical gardens that are a short taxi ride from the town centre - El Charco del Ingenio. This place has some walking trails and you see lots of different types of cacti, I don't know why, I just like how cute they all look. And there's a gift shop here with lots of local crafts, I really like all the stuff they have here. I got Anne a cactus pillow and there were also some cactus heat-proof mats and other things.
We also had cactus fruit sorbet, it was good on a nice sunny day - actually every day is a nice, hot sunny day here, so be sure to bring your hat, sunglasses and lots of water.
above image, right: cactus fruit sorbet
below image: a bird watching club having lunch on the grounds
above image, left: didn't know cactus blooms flowers....
below image: even the washroom here is painted in beautiful colours
After that we went into a part of San Miguel that seems like a Californian shopping centre - where the whole shopping centre is "outdoors". The grocery store there is huge like an American grocery store. We got some food there and then went to get our nails done at one of the salons. I decided to get colours inspired by this trip, and fell in love with the yellow that they used. Ever since that trip, I've been searching for this colour by OPI - Never a Dulles Moment (I finally found it at the end of 2020 in Langley!).
After we got our nails done we went back to our hotel to rest. For dinner that night we had plans to go back to the Italian restaurant, before we went for dinner we walked around a building with lots of murals and artworks, I'm not sure if this is the Museo Historico de San Miguel de Allende.
We made our way afterwards to El Jardin and got an outdoors table at the Italian restaurant, where you can feel a gentle breeze and watch kids were play in front of the cathedral after school.
As we enjoyed our dinner, the cathedral lit up and the mariachi bands continued to make their rounds in the Jardin. A great way to end the night and this trip in San Miguel.
DAY 5 - San Miguel de Allende back to Mexico City
The next morning, we woke up and got ready to make our way back to Mexico City where we'll continue the rest of our trip.
Before going to the bus terminal, we stopped by a local mart to pick up some snacks for the bus ride, and walked through the empty Jardin for the last time.
above image: we probably took ETN, so that's why I took this photo..... :D
Once we arrived in Mexico City, we checked into our hotel and then set out once again to find a place to do laundry. After dropping off our laundry, we went to a restaurant that serves both Thai food and Japanese food!
You would think since I'm in Mexico I would be having lots of Mexican food, or all my meals would be that, but it's good to know that there's actually lots of different cuisines and restaurants to choose from in Mexico City. As we walked along the streets we saw lots of western restaurants serving pasta and steaks and things like that. I wasn't expecting very much from this restaurant, especially when it does both Thai and Japanese food..... and it wasn't as good as if you compare it to Japanese food in Vancouver, but it was still good. They served both cuisines but were essentially two restaurants/kitchens, just that the dining area was in the same space. The way they decorated was quite nice as well.
above image: oops..... sorry to disturb you.
images above: we ordered oshi sushi, Pad Thai, Japanese Skewers,
and Dango (Japanese rice cake balls that are grilled and come with a sticky sauce)
image below: their sushi bar was quite nice to sit around, I enjoy watching the chefs be busy.
After dinner, we decided to go for a walk around the neighbourhood and see if we could find a grocery store, not that we were still hungry, but we needed to prepare some food for the next day when we visit Teotihuacan. As we were walking along the dark streets (they don't have many street lamps here just like most North American cities), Anne pulled me to the side and I thought she was trying to indicate that there was someone coming up behind me to attack or something. I froze and don't know what happened next.... but a person just walked by. I can't remember the exact situation, but just remember that I was so scared, but after I explained to Anne what I thought was going on we had a huge laugh about this. Laughing so loudly, and from deep in my belly, that I think everyone in the neighbourhood could hear us.
We eventually found the grocery store and ended up buying some fresh fruit or veggies (like baby carrot and cherry tomato), several bottles of water and some canned tuna and bread. Now that I'm writing about this trip, I can see that we did walk a lot and did a lot of stuff every day. More to come about the rest of our trip in Mexico City.
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